Mercedes-Benz R107 · 280–560 SL · 1971–1989
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Reference guide

Finding & decoding your R107 factory paint code

Every Mercedes-Benz R107 SL (280SL through 560SL, 1971–1989) left the factory with a three-digit color code stamped on a metal data card. Knowing that code is the difference between a touch-up that disappears and one that screams. Here's where to find it, what it means, and how to use it.

Where the data card lives

On the R107, the primary aluminum data card is riveted to the radiator support / core support bar — open the hood and look at the flat panel just above and behind the radiator. Most cars also have a duplicate paper card in the maintenance booklet that came with the car.

  • US-market 1972–1985: stamped aluminum plate, top of the radiator support, driver's side bias.
  • US-market 1986–1989 (560SL): same location; later cars often add a second sticker on the driver-side door jamb listing build options.
  • Euro & ROW cars: same radiator-support placement; language on the card differs but the code position is identical.

If the card is missing (common on repainted cars), check inside the spare-tire well cover, the maintenance booklet, and any factory work orders in the car's history file.

Reading the card

The card lists multiple codes; the two that matter for paint and trim work are:

Paint

DB ### or just ###

Three digits, sometimes prefixed "DB" (Daimler-Benz). Example: 040 = black, 737 = astral silver, 568 = signal red.

Interior

### (separate three digits)

Covers the soft trim (seats, panels, carpet) and is independent of the paint code. Example: 152 = palomino MB-Tex.

Common R107 paint codes

Not a complete list — these are the codes that come up most often when sourcing touch-up. Always confirm against your own car's data card.

CodeNameType
040BlackSolid
147Classic WhiteSolid
568Signal RedSolid
572Inca / English RedSolid
737Astral SilverMetallic
744Pearl GreyMetallic
904China BlueSolid
481Petrol BlueMetallic
199Blue-BlackMetallic
534Signal Red (later)Solid

Ordering touch-up that actually matches

  1. 1. Verify the code in person. Photograph the data card. Repainted cars sometimes carry the original code even though the color on the car is different.
  2. 2. Match formula to year. Some codes (e.g. 568 Signal Red) shifted slightly across the production run. Reputable suppliers ask for the model year along with the code.
  3. 3. Buy by code, not by name. "Silver" covers a dozen MB codes. Always quote the three-digit number.
  4. 4. For metallics, order a base + clear. Single-stage spray bombs never match a metallic correctly. Use a two-step base/clear system.

Common gotchas

  • The VIN tag in the driver-side door jamb does NOT carry the paint code on most R107s — use the radiator-support data card instead.
  • Faded data cards are common after 40+ years under the hood. Side lighting and a magnifier usually pulls the digits back.
  • A car wearing 040 Black with a body-color hardtop almost always shows chips along the chrome trim — order the same code in a brush bottle for fast field repairs.
  • If the code starts with a letter prefix you don't recognize, it's likely an aftermarket code from a repaint — not a factory MB code.

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